Retinol: A Guide
Retinol- A form of Vitamin A. The Queen of skin-reparative and age-defying benefits. Ideal as a preventative measure and the Gold standard as an anti aging treatment.
As we age our skin cell turn over decreases at a rapid rate, Retinol helps to speed up this process by re-energising fibroblasts, stimulating the production of collagen, hyaluronic acid and elastin. All the things your skin needs to stay smooth and supple. Retinol helps to maintain the natural regenerative process of your skin cells, reducing fine lines and wrinkles whilst creating stronger, more youthful skin.
Although this ingredient is the best for most skin concerns its high potency can come with a few unwanted side effects. This is why it is so important to do your research, find a retinol that suits your skin type and needs, and incorporate it gradually into your routine.
SIDE EFFECTS OF RETINOL:
When first starting to use Retinol you will see skin cells renewing at a rapid rate. This can cause a 'peeling' effect and you may experience dry flakey patches. However if this happens, do not panic, persevere and keep your skin well hydrated. Your skin will adapt to the new rate of skin cell turn over and the flakiness will subside. This process is called the Retinoid Transitioning Period.
That being said, Retinol should never be applied to a damaged or broken skin barrier. If you experience burning, stinging or aggressive redness you should stop using the product all together, it may be too strong.
Retinol also increased your skin sensitivity to the sun so should only be used at night time and ALWAYS use an SPF 50 during the day even when it is cloudy.
HOW TO USE:
1) Introduce slowly to your routine
To minimise side effects and help your skin adjust, start with a low dose (0.3%) and only use 1-2 times a week. After cleansing apply your eye cream and moisturiser then a thin, even amount, no bigger than a pea all other the face then a hydrating serum and moisturiser on top. We call this the "SANDWICH" protocol.
After a couple of weeks, if your skin is happy you can start to increase the amount of times you use it a week. Do not rush the process and reduce frequency if needed.
2) Avoid the Lip & Eye area
The skin around your lips and eyes are much more sensitive and delicate than the rest of your face. Avoid Retinol under the eye area as this can make the skin thin and crepey and extenuate dark circles.
There are weaker formulas, Retinol eye creams specifically made for the eye area.
3) Apply at night
As Retinol increases sun sensitivity you should only ever apply at night time to avoid any unnecessary sensitivity and flaking. This also allows the formula to work to its full potential whilst you are sleeping.
4) Wear SPF
The increased cell turn over will temporarily make your skin thinner, increasing sensitivity to sun.
The number 1 rule of Retinol... WEAR SPF !!!!
5) Avoid if pregnant or breastfeeding
Vitamin A plays a vital role in fetal development, which means high levels of retinol may interfere with this development.
WHEN TO START USING RETINOL:
The best time to start using Retinol is mid 20s or early 30s as this is the age when your skin cell turn over starts to slow down. However it is never to late to introduce this ingredient into your routine it can still benefit you.