The Skin Bay
Ingredients Library
A searchable encyclopedia of skincare actives, what each one does, who it’s for, how to use it, and what to pair (or avoid). Tap any ingredient to learn more and shop products formulated with it.
Retinoid Retinol The gold-standard vitamin A derivative. Speeds cell turnover, refines texture and softens fine lines over 12 weeks of consistent evening use.
Binds to retinoid receptors in the skin to accelerate cell turnover, stimulate collagen and normalise pigment production. Visible smoothing, fading and clarity over 8–12 weeks.
PM only, on dry skin. Start 2 nights a week and build up. Always finish with moisturiser and pair with daily SPF 30+.
Retinoid Retinaldehyde Retinaldehyde, one step closer to retinoic acid than retinol. Faster results with surprisingly gentle tolerance.
Converts to retinoic acid in a single step (vs. two for retinol), making it up to 11× faster while remaining well tolerated. Smooths, evens and firms.
PM only. Start every third night for 2 weeks, build to nightly. Buffer with moisturiser if sensitive.
Retinoid Tretinoin Prescription-strength retinoic acid. The most clinically studied anti-ageing and acne active in dermatology.
Acts directly on retinoid receptors without conversion. Resurfaces, fades pigment, clears acne and rebuilds collagen.
Prescription only. Pea-sized dose PM, on dry skin. Daily SPF non-negotiable.
Soothing Niacinamide Vitamin B3, the everyday multitasker. Calms redness, refines pores, supports the barrier and brightens uneven tone.
Strengthens the skin's lipid barrier, regulates sebum, inhibits melanosome transfer and reduces inflammatory markers.
AM and/or PM. Layers under everything. Safe in pregnancy.
Antioxidant L-Ascorbic Acid The most studied form of Vitamin C. A potent antioxidant that brightens, defends against pollution and boosts SPF.
Neutralises free radicals, inhibits tyrosinase to fade pigment, and stimulates collagen. Most effective at 10–20% at pH < 3.5.
AM, on clean skin, before moisturiser and SPF. Store away from light and air.
Exfoliant Glycolic Acid The smallest AHA molecule, deepest penetration. Resurfaces, smooths and reveals brighter skin underneath.
Dissolves the bonds between dead surface cells, accelerating turnover. Improves texture, tone and clarity.
PM, 2–3 nights a week. Always SPF the next morning. Not for sensitive or compromised skin.
Exfoliant Lactic Acid A gentler AHA that exfoliates and hydrates at the same time, ideal for dry or first-time acid users.
Exfoliates the surface while drawing water into the skin. Smooths texture without stripping.
PM, 2–4 nights a week. Follow with moisturiser.
Exfoliant Salicylic Acid Oil-soluble BHA that travels into the pore to unclog blackheads, calm breakouts and refine congested skin.
Dissolves sebum and dead cells inside the pore. Anti-inflammatory at low concentrations.
PM (or as a cleanser AM). Spot-treat or apply all-over 3–5× a week.
Brightening Azelaic Acid A quiet powerhouse for rosacea, redness, post-acne marks and stubborn pigmentation. Safe in pregnancy.
Antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory and a tyrosinase inhibitor. Calms redness while gently fading pigment.
AM and/or PM. Apply after serums, before moisturiser. Layers beautifully with everything.
Hydration Hyaluronic Acid A hydration magnet that holds up to 1000× its weight in water. Plumps, smooths and softens immediately.
A humectant that draws water into the upper layers of skin. Multi-weight formulas hydrate at different depths.
AM and PM, on damp skin, sealed in with moisturiser.
Peptide Peptides Short chains of amino acids that signal skin to firm, repair and rebuild. The collagen-support active.
Different peptides do different jobs: signal collagen, relax expression lines, support the barrier or boost wound repair.
AM and PM. Excellent layered with retinoids and vitamin C.
Barrier Ceramides The lipids that make up over 50% of your skin barrier. Restore them and almost every concern improves.
Replenish the skin's mortar between cells, reducing water loss and protecting against irritants.
AM and PM as moisturiser. Especially useful when starting retinoids or acids.
Antioxidant Vitamin E A lipid-soluble antioxidant that protects cell membranes and amplifies the brightening power of vitamin C.
Neutralises free radicals in the lipid layer of the skin and supports barrier repair.
AM, paired with vitamin C and SPF.
Soothing Centella Asiatica Cica, the K-beauty soothing hero. Calms redness, accelerates repair and supports a compromised barrier.
Madecassoside and asiaticoside reduce inflammation and stimulate wound healing.
AM and PM, especially after retinoids, acids or in-clinic treatments.
Sun Protection Zinc Oxide A mineral SPF filter that physically reflects UVA + UVB. Non-irritating and reef-safe.
Sits on the surface of skin scattering and reflecting UV. Broad-spectrum and photo-stable.
Final step AM, generously and re-applied every 2 hours of sun exposure.
Sun Protection Titanium Dioxide A second mineral SPF filter that pairs with zinc oxide for full-spectrum protection.
Scatters and reflects UV rays. Especially effective against UVB.
Final step AM, re-apply every 2 hours.
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